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Eating Right in America: The Cultural Politics of Food and Health, by Charlotte Biltekoff
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Eating Right in America is a powerful critique of dietary reform in the United States from the late nineteenth-century emergence of nutritional science through the contemporary alternative food movement and campaign against obesity. Charlotte Biltekoff analyzes the discourses of dietary reform, including the writings of reformers, as well as the materials they created to bring their messages to the public. She shows that while the primary aim may be to improve health, the process of teaching people to "eat right" in the U.S. inevitably involves shaping certain kinds of subjects and citizens, and shoring up the identity and social boundaries of the ever-threatened American middle class. Without discounting the pleasures of food or the value of wellness, Biltekoff advocates a critical reappraisal of our obsession with diet as a proxy for health. Based on her understanding of the history of dietary reform, she argues that talk about "eating right" in America too often obscures structural and environmental stresses and constraints, while naturalizing the dubious redefinition of health as an individual responsibility and imperative.
- Sales Rank: #111361 in Books
- Published on: 2013-10-02
- Original language: English
- Number of items: 1
- Dimensions: 9.00" h x 6.00" w x .50" l, .65 pounds
- Binding: Paperback
- 224 pages
From Publishers Weekly
In this rigorous but intentionally inconclusive book, Biltekoff, a former chef and currently U.C. Davis assistant professor of American studies and food science, raises important questions about the national dialogue on eating right. Her meticulously researched examination of attempts to make Americans more nutrition-conscious doesn't quantify the value of nutrition, nor does it advocate any one approach. Instead, Biltekoff narrates a 150-year-long battle to cajole Americans into thinking about eating as an extension of good citizenship. Diet has long been seen in the U.S. as a sign of proper behavior in general; during WWII, attitudes toward food were linked directly to helping Uncle Sam. Biltekoff effectively forges connections between this extreme and the current craze for organic food and the obesity epidemic. The author shows, carefully and explicitly, that even the most virtuous approaches to healthful eating are based, sometimes unconsciously, in shaming and class and racial biases. 25 b&w illus. (Oct.)
Review
"Eating Right in America is a must-read for anyone interested in modern dietary reform. I say that as a scholar who has studied the subject for more than twenty-five years. This concise, well-researched, and provocative book is an instructor's dream, and it is certainly a book that every student and practitioner of nutrition, dietetics, and food science should read and ponder." (Warren Belasco, author of Meals to Come: A History of the Future of Food)
"This is the book I dreamed of—without having the grown-up words for it—when I was a chubby little kid who rode her bike everywhere and ate her veggies and still got picked on for being fat. A brilliant, intersectional analysis and a thoroughly enjoyable read, Eating Right brings long-overdue skepticism to the insalubrious history of food– and weight–related finger wagging in America." (Marilyn Wann, author of FAT!SO?)
“Biltekoff . . . raises important questions about the national dialogue on eating right. . . . Biltekoff effectively forges connections between this extreme and the current craze for organic food and the obesity epidemic. The author shows, carefully and explicitly, that even the most virtuous approaches to healthful eating are based, sometimes unconsciously, in shaming and class and racial biases.” (Publishers Weekly)
"Eating Right in America achieves its mission to encourage readers to reconsider what we think we know about nutrition science, dietary advice, and health, as well as how they operate within American culture. This is a book to press eagerly into the hands of any nutrition student or dietetics professional, so that they may first consider and then transform the social messages that are included in the dietary advice that they impart." (Emily J.H. Contois Digest)
"[A] magnificent book that successfully accomplishes the often-difficult balance between academic rigor, general accessibility, and social advocacy . . . This is an important book that will find particular enthusiasm among historians of food, fat studies, science, medicine, and consumption." (Adam D. Shprintzen Journal of American History)
“Overall, Biltekoff’s investigation of dietary reform in the last century is powerfully critical and an important reminder of how the politics of food and health are arteries to the politics of class, gender, and economics.” (Dustin Freeley Journal of American Culture )
"The book presents an important, timely reflection on the dietary discourse in the USA, contributing to the fields of food studies, nutrition, public health and the emerging fat studies." (Melissa Fuster Global Public Health)
“Eating Right in America is a welcome addition to the field of food studies. It directs a critical—but not wholly unkind—eye to the various ways that dietary reformers in America have encouraged eating ‘‘right,’’ and it very clearly makes its argument that discourses on food and nutrition reflect understandings of good citizenship and class membership, not simply the most up-to-date science of diet and health.” (Dory Kornfeld Agriculture and Human Values)
“Charlotte Biltekoff spells out in great and fine detail how the science of race improvement, Malthusian economics, and an obsession for producing healthy (and fat) babies merged into a post–World War II world of the ultrathin driven by ideologies of health and religion. . . . I am delighted that Charlotte Biltekoff and Duke University Press have confronted the claims of how we must make better citizens in our fantasy of how they should be made to eat.” (Sander Gilman Bulletin of the History of Medicine)
"Well-written, thoughtful, and provocative.... Her work will serve as a jumping-off point for more exploration of what the millions of people affected by dietary reform thought about it and, perhaps even more fundamentally, how they ate differently, or did not, as a result. Eating Right in America should get food scholars, and everyone else, thinking and talking." (Helen Zoe Veit Gastronomica)
About the Author
Charlotte Biltekoff is Assistant Professor of American Studies & Food Science and Technology at the University of California, Davis. Previously, she was a chef at Greens, a well-known vegetarian restaurant in San Francisco.
Most helpful customer reviews
4 of 4 people found the following review helpful.
Interesting if this is something on your radar
By Autamme_dot_com
One must be forgiven for recollecting stereotypes, but when you contrast the marketing text for this book to the popular imagery of the United States, you must wonder if they refer to the same country.
"(The book) chronicles the dietary reform movements that have shaped ideas about good nutrition and public health in the United States for more than a century." With the high take up of pre-processed food and takeaway outlets, it feels harder to accept that things have got better, instead of getting worse. With greater economic freedom and choice thanks to automation and industrialisation, have we made a step or two backwards? Yet the book does identify a possible reason for why things seem to be the way they are.
This is an academically-focussed book which is still quite accessible and possibly of benefit to those with an interest in food, social society and similar "disciplines." It won't make you a better cook but it might help improve your understanding of many issues. Just manage your expectations accordingly ahead of time. Six chapters present the author's contention that despite their scientific origins, dietary ideals are also cultural, subjective and political. Trying to teach people that "eating right" will improve their health may be laudable, yet it requires a different approach to that used today.
As you would expect of an academic reference work, it is crammed full of footnotes and an extensive bibliography. It is unfortunate that the price and the overall approach of this book might push it out of reach of the more general reader - through no fault of the book - as the central messages deserve a much wider audience and to help challenge contemporary thinking. If you have a professional or academic need for this kind of material, you will find it a very reasonable, comprehensive and compelling read, even if you disagree with parts of it.
2 of 2 people found the following review helpful.
It's what's for dinner...
By Zachary S. Pierce
I'm a student of Nutrition Science, a field which, despite its role in improving lives, is fraught with controversy regarding what dietary health truly is. I approach nutrition with an open mind, and a critical eye, and I like to think this is necessary in any field which aims to suggest improvements in our daily lives, especially when substantiated by seemingly inscrutable data and trends. This book does a good job a lifting the veil that shrouds our already opaque understanding of dietary health, while remaining neutral yet elegant. I love the potential nutrition offers with respect to understanding what eating says about us as a nation, a culture, a person, but I can't help but be discouraged at times when nutrition related information is distorted and poorly disseminated to the masses. Science can be an often inaccessible field of study, and elucidating its objectives can prove challenging. Professor Biltekoffe's book helps reveal why a discipline with such potential can often present as a hurdle to understanding what is meant by dietary "health".
A nice, insightful read by a nice, insightful person. I look forward to the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th editions, to which I hope she understands she is obligated and should not disappoint her readers!
2 of 2 people found the following review helpful.
Essential reading for any food activist
By Rachel Laudan
When every other chef is a food activist, when eating well is construed as a way of doing good, we really need Charlotte Biltekoff's sane, insightful insights into how, in the United States, eating right became a Trojan horse for all kinds of theories of moral and political reform.
When Biltekoff realized that, for all their differences, the pioneering home economists and Alice Waters, the restaurateur and advocate of the "delicious revolution," both used right eating as a way to forward agendas about what it was to be a moral person and a good citizen, she embarked on a many-year investigation of dietary advice in the United States.
Her conclusions are sane and sobering. She does not recommend backing off dietary advice. She does argue that you should only offer it after considering all the class and political baggage that may well be implicit in that advice.
If you are a food activist, here are some lessons to ponder. If you are just someone who reads the advice in newspapers and magazines, here is a handbook for interpreting the larger messages of that advice.
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